Sewing Descent is a hobby project created by Zach Newton to make outdoor gear that combines eco-friendly principles, multi-functional design, and sustainable materials. We're based in Seattle, WA where "outside" and "rain" are frequently synonymous; you'll find that the need for water-resistance in a humid environment is a core driver in most of our projects.
Principles
In a dying world where petroleum dependency and short-lived products feel unavoidable, our core principles revolve entirely around sustainability: Refuse, Repair, Repurpose.
Repair gear when it breaks, and design gear to be repairable in the first place. This can be as small as replacing a sewn-in piece of elastic webbing with a tied-in piece of shock cord or as large as re-waterproofing an entire bag.
Repurpose
Repurpose something we already have, rather than buy something new. The United States generates 300 million tons of waste annually; we don't want to contribute to that number if at all possible. That means repurposing “trash” such as using fabric from local factory scraps or using washed and cut plastic take-out containers as stiffeners.
Transparency
Not one of the 3 R's, but important nonetheless. We have learned multitudes from other folks in online forums (r/myog, r/ultralight, BackpackingLight, etc.) and tutorial sites (LearnMYOG, MYOG Tutorials, etc.). It's important to us to give back in whatever small ways we can such as publishing our Waxed Canvas process and ingredients, our material suppliers, any digitized patterns, and whatever else people want to know. Hopefully, by sharing our knowledge and learnings, we can help others enter the sustainable gear making space along with us!
Materials
Our goal is to use avoid buying and using fresh petroleum-based materials wherever possible. Primarily, we use waxed canvas for external shell fabric and factory scraps when thin, lightweight plastic is preferred.
However, sometimes materials that break down quickly can drastically reduce the durability or longevity of a product. Also, this is just a small, hobby project, so petroleum alternatives can be cost prohibitive or entirely unavailable. In these cases, minimal but intentional use of petroleum products is required.
Waxed Canvas
A fascination with the possibilities of waxed canvas was really what started this whole endeavor. In our experience, "breathable and waterproof" is never true, and once Zach learned that waterproof breathability severely declines with increase in humidity, waxed canvas became a fixation.
There are a few crucial attributes to know about when talking waxed canvas:
Wax Composition: Most brands use Paraffin wax, but a select few use natural ingredients like beeswax.
Canvas Weight: Canvas comes in many weights from 3.5oz to almost 30oz per yard. Different weights can require different wax composition to achieve desirable texture and waterproofing.
Canvas Material: Usually when people talk about "Waxed Canvas", they are referring to 100% Cotton Duck canvas. However, you can wax cotton-poly blends, too. It is not recommended to wax a blend that is greater than 40% polyester.
Canvas Weave & Fill: Different weights of canvas also come with different weaves and fills. Numbered Duck Canvas (e.g. #8 (11.5 oz), #10 (15oz), etc.) are "double-fill", while others are usually "single-fill." The Weave and fill impact the durability and stretch characteristics of canvas. There's even "Ripstop Canvas" which is a special cross-grid weave to prevent rips from growing.
Big brands using petroleum products aren't going anywhere, and let's face it, petroleum-based materials can be really, really cool. Thankfully, some companies let you buy their factory scraps (leftovers from discontinued products or colors)!
When building gear that's meant to last a long time, sometimes that we have to use materials that will never break down. Petroleum products meet that requirement perfectly.
The questions we use to justify using plastics in some parts of gear are
How structurally vital is this component? Examples of structurally critical materials
UV-treated Polyester Thread (cotton thread breaks down too fast when exposed to sun)
Webbing (cotton webbing breaks down too fast when exposed to sun)
Zippers (metal zippers are infamously finnicky)
Are there reasonable alternatives? Examples of plastic replacements:
Side-release buckles → Aluminum G-hooks
Line-lock → Girth-hitch or taut-line knot
Polyester seam binding → Flat-fell seams
Stretch mesh → Pleated canvas
Is there a recycled or bio-based option available? Examples of recycled options:
“A common definition of 'ultralight' is: hiking with the lightest pack weight possible by taking a minimal amount of the lightest gear required to be safe for a given trip.” — r/Ultralight
We don't claim to make the most minimal gear, but we do limit the amount of ultra-specific features in our gear, which aligns with the ultralight ethos of minimalism and multi-functionality.
That means making gear that can serve multiple purposes well with little-to-no bells & whistles, rather than one purpose perfectly.
Ultralight Design in Practice
In practice, our design process can look like the following example:
Need: A small/medium volume backpack that's good for day hikes, overnight backpacking, and even light ski touring.☹︎ Others:
PU coated ripstop that will start leaking after a year or less
Water resistent, zipper or draw-cord opening
Multiple, purpose-built inner pockets
No inner frame sleeve
No pockets, small zipper pockets or irreplaceable elastic pockets
No hip belt or small webbing
No adjustable load lifters
Plastic hardware
☺︎ Sewing Descent:
Waxed cotton canvas that can be re-waxed for generations
Waterproof roll-top closure
Optional inner frame sleeve and hydration sleeve
Pleated external pockets with replaceable elastic closure
Adjustable load lifters and S-straps
Removable padded hip belt with optional pockets
Aluminum hardware and knots
Result: An expandable/compressible 20-30L waterproof backpack with secure external carry options and scalable load capacity that will last a lifetime.
This design philosophy means that we won't be the lightest gear on the market, but you'll have functionally light gear with options to add/remove any features for the day.
Inspiration
Shout out to the many brands, creators, and educators who inspired us to start down this path!